Fisterra y Muxía (Finisterre and Mugía) are two towns on the Atlantic Ocean west of Santiago de Compostela. Both cities are located on the Costa da Morte (Coast of Death)). This is quite a popular way to extend the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage. The most popular target is Finisterra,whose name means End of Earth. The road to both Muxia and Fisterra begins in Santiago de Compostela. For 2 days, the pilgrimage runs along the common Route Camino de Finisterra. It is only on the 3rd day that we get to the fork in Fisterra or Muxia. I chose the option to get to Muxia first and then to get to Fisterra. The route with the connection of both towns is about 110 kilometers long, and we need about 4 days to cross it.
I went on tour after finishing the Camino Primitivo,in August 2020. In Santiago de Compostela I also parted with my group of 7 people met on the Camino and I was left with only one person.
The route from Santiago de Compostela to Muxia measures about 78 kilometers and takes about 3 days of the road. I spent 2 nights in Muxia due to the need to rest after a dozen or so days of hiking, as well as the beauty of the town. Then the next stage was the 1st day of the march from Muxia to Fisterra. We then have about 27 kilometers to overcome. The last “finishing” stage is a 3 km walk from the center of Fisterra to the lighthouse. This point is the unofficial but very popular end of the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage.
Santiago de Compostela – Negreira
Day 1 of the Camino de Finisterra begins in the square under the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela. We have about 20.5 kilometers to go and an elevation of about 230 meters. The road runs through forests and small Galician towns, such as A Ponte Maceira, which is considered one of the most beautiful villages in Spain. Negreira is a big town. There are several hostels, shops and restaurants. There are a lot of people in the San Jose shelter, which is quite a surprise, especially after the Camino Primitivo, where apart from our group of 7 people practically no one stayed overnight.
Accommodation in Negreira: Albergue-Pensión San José
Negreira – Olveiroa
The next day we set off early in the morning from Negreira. We have to overcome 32 kilometers and about 280 meters of elevation. I have the impression that after reaching Santiago de Compostela, the following days are much calmer. There is more time to think. With every kilometer traveled, thoughts and feelings fall into place.
Accommodation in Olveiroa: Albergue Hórreo
Olveiroa – Muxía
From Olveiroa we set off on the main route of the Camino de Fisterra. The fork to Muxia is located about 5 kilometers behind the town of Olveiroa. The entire route from Olveiroa is about 26 kilometers. If we choose the road to Fisterra, we will have about 29 kilometers of hiking.
A few kilometers before Muxía begins the coveted view of the Atlantic Ocean. We notice both beautiful sandy beaches and dangerous rocks. The Costa da Morte got its name from a large number of shipwrecks that crashed into the surrounding rocks.
Accommodation Muxía: Albergue Bela Muxía
In Muxia we stay for 2 nights. After reaching the hostel, we show our Pilgrim Passport (Credencial) and receive la Muxiana, i.e. the Camino de Muxía certificate of passage. The town captivates with its charm and peace. At the end of Muxia there is a hill from which we can admire the view of the entire town. In addition, a little further, by the ocean there is a lighthouse, a small church and the official kilometer 0 Camino de Muxía. It is here that we watch a beautiful sunset.
We use the next day to regenerate our strength, swim in the ocean and sunbathe 🙂
Muxía – Fisterra
The last section from Muxia to Finisterra measures 26 kilometers. For a large part of the route we go with a view of the beaches and the Atlantic Ocean. We also meet pilgrims doing the opposite route – from Fisterra to Muxia.
Fisterra is the last city on the Camino de Fisterra route. After reaching it, we can receive la Fisterrana, which is another certificate in memory of the completion of the Camino. The traditional end of the Camino de Fisterra is to watch the sunset at the el Faro de Fisterra lighthouse. It is located 3 kilometres from the town centre. All pilgrims meet here to celebrate the completion of the Camino de Santiago.
Fisterra is famous for its joyful atmosphere, which is created thanks to the pilgrims who come here. And a lot of people working in bars and albergues are pilgrims who have fallen in love with this place. Unfortunately, in 2020 there were not too many tourists and the town was quite quiet and peaceful. Due to the pandemic, there were no traditional bonfires on the beach and fun until the morning. However, I hope that as soon as possible this tradition will return to favor 🙂
From Fisterra the next day we returned by bus to Santiago de Compostela. From where we have already gone to the Camino Portugues de la Costa. As you can see, the spirit of the Camino remained, even after reaching the End of the Earth 😉
To sum up, if we have time and do not want to end the adventure of the Camino de Santiago, it is worth going on the next few days of the march to Fisterra or Muxia, or both. And especially to see the sunset over the Atlantic and bathe in the icy water,which will wash away the hardships and toils of wandering.
More information about the Camino de Santiago, including how to choose a trail, how to prepare and what to bring in the post about the Camino de Santiago here.
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